Painting question - priming on the sprue

[Imaginos]

I've seen this mentioned quite a few times, where people go ahead and prime the models while still on the sprue. I think I actually have some Grey Knights that were done like that (still on sprue). I get that it makes it easier to spray prime them, but doesn't that leave an issue where you have bare plastic after removing from the sprue? How do you get around that? I don't imagine you want to prime again, as that defeats the purpose. So do you use brush on primer to clean that little bit on each model up?

Just trying to figure out how people get around that unprimed bits of plastic.

[jason1977]

i did this once with some ork flash gits from the old codex. i used this gold spary paint on shootas so i had to prime before hand. in my case the non-primed and non- gold painted parts were a min. Once I cut the handle off the shoota glueing was not an issue.

[MagickalMemories]

I think it would depend MOSTLY on the models but, also, on how you're painting them.
Display standard? Never.
Gritty orcs, SCM, SM, etc? Could be okay.

You're going to have bare spots wherever you removed the sprue and where you (hopefully) cleaned your mold lines, presuming you didn't clean them on the sprue. Brush on primer will cover it, but you run risks of the primer not matching, or brush strokes showing up.

Personally, I'd never prime them on sprue. I'd prime them before assembly, then clean the primer off of the areas to be glued (before gluing).

Eric

[iPAINTminis]

I've seen this done as well and personally I find it a complete waste of time.

I do a lot of brush on priming using generally thinned down GW foundation paints, I find it works really well depending on the color I am planning on as a major base color. However that's a bit off topic so "staying on target..."

Unless you have no intention of cleaning mold lines, then I suppose this would be an okay process, then just use a brush on primer to touch up the clipped zones, but once you take cleaning mold lines, cleaning flash off, fixing your clipped areas to get them flush...then you could have a lot of brush on priming to do or do a quick spray to finish coverage.

Clip, clean, prime before assembly, and as Eric mentioned, scrap off your glue points is the best way to go.

-BJ

[griffrat]

I agree with the two previous posts. I think it woukd be more trouble than its worth. If your looking ay having something to hold on to, other than the mini while you paint there are a ton of creative things out there.....

[kturock]

the group I game with has several professional painters.
I brought this topic up to them last nite.

all of them paint off sprue, BUT say if done right, you can't tell the difference.

trimming the flash is actually easier, since you see the mold lines based upon where the piece is on the sprue.
alot of the sprue attach points are at glue points. ie, where the arm attaches to the body, where the head attaches to the body and such. so you'll want to remove the paint before you glue the model.

or on spot that just aren't seen, ie inside the vehicle.

after the model is built you just have a minor touch up as you put the parts together.

personally. I paint as I build. there are some parts, places or areas, that after you paint you can't get to, or are easier to paint before built.

I just saw the new helldrake, the wings overlap and are actually easier to paint before their attached to the body or even each other.

[Norseman]

Painting and Priming on the spru is for noobs... LOL

Really it is a waste of time as the whole point of priming is to get a nice even coat of primer on all surfaces that will be painted.
1: so the paint will actually stick
2: it will be consistent color and hue, unless you are doing lighting effects with your priming layer. Then you want derivation that would be impossible on the spru.

[Imaginos]

Thanks for the answers folks. I've seen it mentioned quite often and I just didn't see the benefit in doing it. I'm a clip, clean, assemble, prime, paint guy myself (CCAPP). I just couldn't follow the PCCAP mindset.

[mardaddy601]

Different painters do things different ways to get the results THEY want. So what if some prime on the sprue? It does not make it, "wrong." Even if those painters trim mold lines afterwards, that is very small area that has no primer, and will not affect the overall paint job THAT much (if at all.) If that is their groove, let 'em do it their own way.

My methodology differs with the models I am painting; for some, they get the results they desire with, "clip, clean, assemble, prime, paint," I find I cannot get the details I want to do with assembled models, so usually it is head, torso, legs & base assembled, leaving arms and weapons off until all painting is done and THEN final assembly & flocking. But that is me and for my results.

There is no "wrong" way, there is just finding your own groove and doing the thing that gets the results YOU are looking for. If you don't like the results, you alter your methodology and THAT becomes your groove.

[Imaginos]

Nobody said it was the "wrong" way. I was just trying to understand the rationale behind it.

[mardaddy601]

Not directed at you per se. I just saw a few people in the thread getting on a bit like it was a daft (wrong-headed) idea.

[William143]

I find this very useful for models with a lot of detail, especially those that can be obscured if the figure is fully assembled (for example, when a Space Marine holds his bolter, it's over the Aquilla on his chestplate). It also extends painting time, but can reduce mistakes when painting (I'm looking at you, half the necron kits coming out). Overall, I'd say it depends on your confidence in your painting skill, but it also depends on the model. I wouldn't prime a group of skeletons on the sprue, but, say, a Ghost Ark, or a squad of Grey Knights, or even a regiment of Brettonian Men at Arms with their giant shields, I'd probably prime on the sprue, and paint them as I assemble them.

As for that little bit of plastic, it shouldn't be anything worth worrying about, in my opinion, assuming you use a good base coat. The primer is only there to help the paint stick on from the inside, and that little area shouldn't be too difficult to conceal if it becomes a problem, especially if you varnish your models when they're done.

[kturock]

I'm painting a bunch of dearves and dark elves. The basic bodies; torso & legs; are built and glues to the bases. Heads, and arms are attached. Weapons, standards, musical instraments are attached. The shields are left on the sprues and will be painted on them. I find that's easier and quicker. Then I'll attach them to the models.

[eman1_2]

I typically undercoat any vehicles I do while still on sprue. So, forex, my ork jet - I sprayed red on part, metal parts black, and other details white, so I could have three different colors of undercoating to work with.

I brush over everything anyways, so filing a mold line and the attachment point is no biggie. After clipping each part, I clean it (and the glue point), then assemble it.

Been doing it for 10 years, and always worked just fine for me.

[MagickalMemories]

Yeah. I've been thinking more and more about trying that - especially with Ork vehicles.

I've got an Ork flyer and a Necron flyer I'm contemplating that on.


Eric