Dawn Power dissolve

[eman1_2]

Simple Green uses 2-butoxyethanol to clean (same chemical BP is using to disperse oil) just be sure to keep it in a ventilated area and if your pregnant or wife is pregnant try not to be around it.

Which actually happens to be one of the active ingredient in Windex - so tell her not to clean windows, too, then. And at only 4%. Can cause some problems, but does not bio-accumulate. All in all, pumping gas is probably wore for your health with the benzene and hexanes.

[smonsour]

Simple Green uses 2-butoxyethanol to clean (same chemical BP is using to disperse oil) just be sure to keep it in a ventilated area and if your pregnant or wife is pregnant try not to be around it.

Which actually happens to be one of the active ingredient in Windex - so tell her not to clean windows, too, then. And at only 4%. Can cause some problems, but does not bio-accumulate. All in all, pumping gas is probably wore for your health with the benzene and hexanes.

True as well, the quantity of the material is the issue however it is something to point out if you have a pregnancy in the family.

[MagickalMemories]

I keep hearing about plastics & metals... What about Resin? What cleans resin well?
I've got an Ork Battle Fortress that I'd rather strip (:gasp:) than paint over.

Eric

[Ironhide]

@MM: Simple Green works on resin. See: http://theminiaturespage.com/workbench/806716/

[YoungWolf777]

Anything that is safe for plastic is also safe for resin. Resin is essentially a two-part epoxy plastic in most forms. I have yet to damage any resin parts using the products I've listed as safe for plastics.

That's a good thing to note for my article though, I'll make sure to make that distinction.

[Forsaken Poptart]

Anyone got a good solution for enamel paints? I've been experimenting with stripping them, even though the painters who use them seem to be in the minority.

[YoungWolf777]

Enamel is tough. If you're on metal, then you can go to the "big guns" (acetone/brake fluid) with pretty good success. On plastic, very little will touch it that I know of. I have yet to try the Krud Kutter on enamels (other than primer) and I'm just starting with the Dawn stuff. CSC *might* handle it, but enamel usually bonds to plastic so it's very difficult to remove.

[iPAINTminis]

My experience with enamel is that once it is on, it is on to stay. I've not had much luck at all getting enamel off plastics "safely" so to speak. Personally I use Simple Green almost elusively unless working with pure metal that you can tell the paint is gobbed on, then like YW7 said time to break out the big guns (break fluid). Never tried the Dawn product, interested in your report on how it works.

-BJC

[GMMStudios]

If its enamel on metal I would use laquer thinner.

I love laquer thinner for when I have a few metal models. It eats plastic like a cartoon shoe but you can just dunk a metal model in it and start scrubbing and in five minutes you are done with a handful of minis. No soak time.

But its strong and burns the skin if you use it too long. I wouldnt do a whole army with it I would just use simple green in that case.

[YoungWolf777]

24 hour results are in on Dawn Power Dissolve. It works. Not just works, it WORKS. I'll have pics and an article up tomorrow. Let's just say I'll be switching all of my stripping tubs to this stuff in the very near future,

[MagickalMemories]

When doing your article, please be sure to be very specific about something.

I've seen the articles before, where they talk about how easy it was to strip something and they talk about how the paint just sloughs off under running water with very little scrubbing needed, or they say they just "scrubbed the mini a bit" or something, but don't give solid information on the scrubbing time and effort.

I want to know that, too.

Did you use your fingers, only? A toothbrush? Did you have to break out a sharp pointed implement for the crevasses?
How long/hard did you have to scrub/pick at it? I'm interested in knowing the effort involved in cleaning mini's in the different solutions, too.

I've followed those guides before and ended up spending 10 or more minutes sccrubbing models that didn't turn out as well as described in the articles (thus, my desire not to strip models [as well as my lack of time for it]).

Thanks.

Eric

[EZ mac]

@young wolf- try "greased lightning" on plastics, resin, metal watever. It takes a while but I haven't found anything that works as well without eating detail.

I'm planning on getting a bit of our industrial streingth oven cleaner from my resturant tomarrow. It's silly strong and I haven't had a chance to try it but on grease it's waaaaaaay the strongest thing. I have personally had to clean a oven hood over a indoor BBQ grill thing (ie 1/2in of grease) and only had to spray it in a spray bottle and the grease litteraly melted off...it also melted 2inch hole in my head were it dripped on it but it got the job done.

[smonsour]

24 hour results are in on Dawn Power Dissolve. It works. Not just works, it WORKS. I'll have pics and an article up tomorrow. Let's just say I'll be switching all of my stripping tubs to this stuff in the very near future,

Very cool, I was going to pick some up today. I have some old Dwarfs that need a scrubbing...

[eric68]

I have yet to see it damage plastics, I usually soak the model for a few days, scrubbing periodically with a tooth brush. How well the model was primed seems to have a big impact. good quality primers take a little longer to remove. Cheap primers (aka flat spray paint) seem to come off within a few hours usually.

[MagickalMemories]

...it also melted 2inch hole in my head were it dripped on it

Am I the only one who thinks it might be a HORRIFYINGLY BAD idea to use this stuff for cleaning minis?

Eric