Resin question

[Soulbinder]

Ok I'm new too resin models, and I know of you on here worked with them before.....Here is my question what type of glue or glues can you use on resin models?

Thanks and Regards Soulbinder...

[s_o_r_r_o_w]

Cyanoacrylate adhesive, good old super clue, is what you want.

Remember to wear a HEPA rated dust mask when filing it.

[MagickalMemories]

This thread was initially posted to the "Have Questions? Need Help?" forum, which is questions and help about Bartertown related issues.
I moved it to a more appropriate discussion forum.

Eric

(Also sent via PM)

[spiralingcadaver]

agreed with sorrow- plastic glue is a bad plan, and I mostly work with knives rather than files due to the harmful dust. When there's anything that makes dust, I also wet my tools enough that a fair amount of the dust cakes on them to be wiped off, instead of getting into the air.

[H W Raney]

Soulbinder,
Just a minor addendum to s_o_r_r_o_w's post.
Assuming you're unfamiliar with superglues for this type of use:
There are basically two types of superglues; a simple, straight forward adhesive and a gap-filling type. The second helps to fill in gaps and voids in the model, to a point. A large gap/void would need additional layers of the gap filler or some other filling material. I've found care is needed in filing/sanding/cutting the cured glue - it tends to be far tougher and resistant than the resin.
There is also a curing accelerator that when applied speeds up the process even faster. Probably not needed for the standard glue but I've found that it can help with the slower curing gap filler.
And, as s_o_r_r_o_w mentioned, use a HEPA mask and have good ventilation. The fumes given off during curing are toxic and irritating and the dust generated with sanding, etc is not particularly good for you either.
Welcome to resin models - it opens up quite a few new possibilities.

[Soulbinder]

Thanks for the info gentlemen, I have a well vented place too work on models so no problem there...I think will use the knife idea a dampen it and still use the mask just in case..I will be mixing GW Space wolf heads & arms with Scibor celtic space marine bodies I pick up so I'll use good old super glue then.....Regards Soulbinder

[MagickalMemories]

There is also a curing accelerator that when applied speeds up the process even faster. Probably not needed for the standard glue but I've found that it can help with the slower curing gap filler.

Respectfully, I cannot possibly disagree more with the use of accelerator on super glue. It ruins the bond. Accelerating the "cure" process with this stuff doesn't actually allow the glue to properly cure. It just makes it harden swiftly. Resultingly, you sacrifice your adhesion strength. Plus, when the model comes apart at that join (and it most likely WILL), you will have a much harder time getting it back together properly.

Eric

[s_o_r_r_o_w]

For me, the trade off with accelerant is one that needs to be weighed.

I use it on low-load bonds (the lead shot I fill plastic bases with under plastic figs) but not on pinned arms etc.

If you pin a join, you rarely need the "speed up" of an accelerant to "hold" things while the glue cures.

[MagickalMemories]

Fair enough. You're right; In the case of filling in the underside of the base, it's not likely to matter.
ANYTHING that is going to have any kind of gravity on it or handling done to it should definitely be done "the right way."

Eric