Need some help/advice

[CMSheats]

Hello all,
I am looking for some advice on how to up my painting level. I have been painting for a while, but I have topped progressing and need some advice on how to further my skills. Could some people please give me some tips on how to make this model look better for me? Or just some general things that make guys look better. Whatever tips you have would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

[MagickalMemories]

I see some areas for improvement:

Paint
Brushes
Techniques
Time

Paint:
Your layers look thick.
Thin your paint and, possibly, use better quality paints. What brand are you using now?
Maybe it's technique and maybe it's paint. I won't know until you answer the previous question. It appears, however, as if you're using cheaper, thicker paint (like ceramcoat, apple barrel, etc). Those brands of paint are more pigment light and, therefore, thicker. Better paints (like Reaper, PPP, Vallejo) have higher pigmentation. This means you can get the same density of color in thinner layers.
If you are using the better brands, then it appears as if your paint is old (and has thickened) or you are using too much at a time (many thin layers > fewer thick ones). If it's thickened, you can buy some thinner. Vallejo sells it, and I can only presume the others do, too.

Brushes:
Buy better brushes.
The black lines on the head, which -honestly- I'm not certain what they are meant to represent, are too thick. You need a smaller brush for delicate lines like this. Even better, invest in some Micron pens. They're pricey, but they last (ALWAYS seal you mini BEFORE using Micron pens, or you will clog and ruin them the FIRST time you try to use them). They are available in varying thicknesses.
Take good care of your brushes. Invest in a good brush cleaner. I don't recall the brand off hand, but there's a big tub available at most hobby/craft stores. it's expensive but will probably last you most of the rest of your life (presuming you are not a disgustingly prolific painter).
ONLY drybrush with brushes that are ruined or most of the way there. Drybrushing is one of the quickest ways to ruin your brush.

Techniques:
There seems to be a large area of drybrushing on this model. Drybrushing has kind of come & gone. It has it's uses but, in higher quality models, it should be used sparingly, if ever. Hair, fun, feathers... these kinds of things are easily 'forgiven' for being drybrushed. The large swathes of armor, though, should probably be layered for effect.
If you are looking for better but fast, you might look into the GW washes. They can make a model look far better than it actually is, if used right.

Time:
Spend more on your models while trying to get better.
Prep your model better. I see a huge mold line going down his left arm. A beautiful paint job will be ruined by the presence of a mold line. Make sure you have your entire model cleaned before priming. then, look again after priming. A layer of paint or primer can easily show lines you missed.

Take the time to put in more detail. The gun, for example, looks rushed. You've got no "color" in it on an otherwise colorful model. It's a kind of distraction.
Your wings and helmet don't look shaded and/or highlighted. It might be the picture (in which case you should spend more time learning how to take pics of painted models) but typically, it's just a matter of the shades/highlights not being there or not being enough.

The base should have something done with it for a finished model. If this base was unfinished on purpose... disregard this comment. : )

I hope you don't feel attacked. This was meant 100% constructively.

Eric

[CMSheats]

Wow thanks a ton for all this. This is really going to help me. As for the paints, I am using the GW paints. So I assume that those are good quality. I will look into better brushes and new technics like you suggested. Thanks a million again.
Christopher

[MagickalMemories]

Wow thanks a ton for all this. This is really going to help me. As for the paints, I am using the GW paints. So I assume that those are good quality. I will look into better brushes and new technics like you suggested. Thanks a million again.
Christopher

You'd think GW paints are good quality, but they're really not.
They're too thick and dry out too fast.
Plus, the pigmentation still pales in comparison to the ones mentioned above.

If you like the actual GW colors (*I* do), then go with Vallejo's Game Color line. They've got an exact match (usually with a different name) for every GW color. You probably get less quantity for your money than with GW, but it goes farther thanks to the higher pigmentation & "dropper" tips, and it doesn't dry out as fast. I have Vallejo paints that are literally 8 or 9 years old, if not more, that are just now starting to coagulate on me, due to age.
The only GW paint products you should have in your collection are their inks (which are OOP under the GW label) or their washes. Some of their metallics look nice, too (and go on better than the Vallejo equivalent), but the drying-out factor is still there, making Vallejo the better choice, still.

IMO, of course.


Eric

[CMSheats]

Ok I will have to look into the other types of paint. I just always thought GW was best. But I guess not.

[oaflord]

What he said...

Usually I am a bit of a GW fanboy, but I am becoming more and more disheartened with their paints. Some of the best colours they ever made, they discontinued, so finding them in the Vallejo Game Colour line was a treat! Go Scurf Green!!!

I would highly recommend the use of a palette if you do not already use one. Rather than use the paint straight from the pot, put some on a palette, thin it out a bit and go from there.

Also, basing... (see MM's basing comment if it is unfinished) Basing can make or break a model but do not overdo it. Too much and it takes away from the model, but too little and it looks boring. Also, I highly recommend if you are going to paint the base, put the sand down before you prime the model and make sure it is fully dry before priming. Hope this helps too!!

oAF

[MagickalMemories]

I went from craft paints (Ceramcoat is the best brand, IMO, if you're going to use craft paints) to craft paints AND GW paints.

From there, I added in Vallejo paints to the mix. I was using all 3

Right now, I use Vallejo and craft paints. I think it's a sad statement for GW that I actually dropped their paints (not inks and washes, though) from my collection before I dropped craft paint.

I'm extremely limited on what craft paints I use, though. There are a few metallics that I really like, basic black, and burnt sienna. That's about it, though.

Eric

[CMSheats]

So were can I buy these paints and brushes and stuff you guys are talking about? And Oaf, that does help.

[MagickalMemories]

You can get the "craft" paint and good brushes at any major "Arts & Crafts" store (Michaels, etc).

The Vallejo paints can be bought at most gaming shops or, if you like to shop online, we have an Advertiser, Miniature Market, who carries them (www.miniaturemarket.com).

Eric

[CMSheats]

OK thanks alot. I will have to check him out.

[Norseman]

If you are using a air brush...I have found those nice CHEAP craft paints work really well. (I always prime with a flat black or flat white spray bomb to aid adhesion to the model first. $2.50 per can at hardware store) Water down the craft paint about 50/50 and throw in a drop of dish detergent and you can paint a base color for an an army for about $.50 add a lighting effect for another dime, then start in with the washes and details with the more expensive GW or Val paints. I find it gives an extremely thin base layer of color that you can work up from.

Eldar are particularly easy to paint with those nice armor plates.

Throw on a single color via spray bomb or air brush and then wash the entire model, then hit all the armor plates with the same color or a lighter color than you used for the base color then add a quick highlight or drybrush on the high points.

You have to also choose complementary colors. Some colors don't work well with certain other colors or hues. I personally think that red detracts from the model also the green is a little off as well. If you use one pastel color you should use all pastel colors.

I personally don't like black lining..mainly because i can never get it to look good myself so most of my minis are more of a realistic look. You could paint the helmet white then wash it black and then highlight or drybrush with white again to achieve a similar effect but more realistic shadow than a simple black lining.

GW washes are amazing. i would suggest trying out a wash on your existing paint job. See what it does. I would imagine that it would make it look alot better. If you used a simple badab black it would make it look grittier and more dirty from battle. Or you could use a blue wash on the body and make the armor plates pop.

[MagickalMemories]

I personally don't like black lining..mainly because i can never get it to look good myself so most of my minis are more of a realistic look. You could paint the helmet white then wash it black and then highlight or drybrush with white again to achieve a similar effect but more realistic shadow than a simple black lining.

I agree. I am not a huge fan of black-lining, either. To me, it just makes the definition between the colors/model parts look *forced.*

I prefer what I call "dark lining." It's just like black lining but, instead of using black, you use a *shade* color for one of the two colors that are "meeting." Typically, it's whichever color is darker but, on occasion, I find it better to do the opposite.

Eric

[CMSheats]

Ok. Is it possible to make your own washes that work? Or do you have to use brand ones?

[MagickalMemories]

Ok. Is it possible to make your own washes that work? Or do you have to use brand ones?

There are ways to make your own washes, but I don't know any recipes. With the time, effort and monetary expenditure that's involved, though, you might find it more cost effective to just buy the GW ones, depending on the quantity you need..


Eric

[shenlung]

You can certainly make your own washes, but the big factor is quantity. The base materials are readily available at any Hobby Lobby/Dick Blick's, but for what you buy, you'll probably have enough wash to keep you going forever.

I've seen a couple recipes - If you search out Les Bursley's posts over on DakkaDakka, he's posted it for posterity. Secret Weapon's washes are made based on Les's wash recipe. I've also seen a similar recipe that used Folk Art "Glass & Tile Medium" vs. regular matte medium.

If you need a boatload of one color, you'd probably do alright to buy the materials and mix your own, otherwise, buying the smaller existing pots would probably be your best bet for color choice.

My $.02