Bartertown.com

Well im just starting out in this world of miniature making and i understand super glue is the better thing to use. When i went shopping for it i picked up this super glue in a "gel" form. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this stuff it's made by "loctite."

Also i looked up paints on www.testors.com, before it's apparent upgrade. This question came to mind i know arcrylic paints are water based, and enamel paints are oil based. But i read something with "arcryl" paints and i just have to wonder the difference?

For plastic models, Testor's plastic cement is the best; the Model Masters series. It comes in a black bottle. It makes a permanent bond.
I've recently been using GW's plastic model cemetn and indecisive about it. It seems to dry faster, but I don't know how permanent it it.

Super type glues are best for metal and resins. Different resins respond differently to different super glues. GW's works good on fine cast; but it's pricery than other brands.

For paints, I suggest water based. There are many brands; GW, Vallejo, Reaper are the big names in gaming. But, craft places, like Michael's sells other brands; Folk Art, Apple Barrel, Craftsmart, Americana; are all water based and can be as good as the others for a lot less in price.

I know people who swear but all of the above as being the best.

I use cheap mart brand primer. I know people who only swear by Krylon, GW or other pricey specialist brands.

I suggest you take a few models and experiment. Use basic models not leaders or characters. Good brushes, technique and practice means more than brands of paint. Practice, practice, practice. Heck you can always practice on the sprue after the modes are removed.I'm going to do that now for a color test on a custom model.

Good luck and don't sweat it. If you don't like the results, you can always strip the paint and restart. Metal models strip easier than the rest.

Yea to be honest, i'm a little hesitant to use plastic cement because i understand it tends to melt plastic things together. I absolutely won't use it with soldier miniatures because i figure the key thing with those is customizing.

As for painting, well i agree arcrylics are the best thing, i just want to know the difference with "arcryl" paint so i don't have an "eh ok ill try it on this arcrylic model i've been painting the last few hours" moment. Because the sense i get of painting it is a VERY BAD IDEA to mix up paint types on a model. I was also thinking more of starting with vehicles because that opens up the option of base coating using an airbrush and detailing with a paint brush. I'm also nervous about doing soldiers especially in games like warhammer 40k, because the way i see it, you are going to want to read up on the basic material before you even touch an infantry unit kit.

Another question i have that comes to mind, anyone know a good brand of fine line painter's tape for models? I mean the stuff i've seen used to make wicked paint jobs on motorcycle gas tanks looks like it will fit the bill but im just not familar enough with that world.

I use Gel Super Glue for all my minis, both plastic and metal, and have never had any issue. I actually prefer it.

I use LePage name brand but I don't think it matters what name brand you use. Fairly certain Loctite is just another popular name brand for them (it's like Home Depot/Hardware vs Walmart - One will have one or the other). I used to use plastic cement but I found it was too stringy for my tastes.

As for paints Kturock is dead on. I use a mixture of GW, PP and Vallejo. What you DO NOT want to use is enamel paints. Anything other than enamel should work.

When it comes to painting models you need to not be so "beat your self up". When I first originally started painting I was SO nervous that I would accidentally ruin an hours work by hitting the brush in a spot wrong. Usually it was because I was blending or mixing colours and I didn't want to mess it up since I didn't think I could fix it.

Now I paint in a system that allows me to get what I want without having to worry about "messing up". And if I DO mess up, it isn't that bad and can easily be fixed. A lot is about how confident I have become with my painting. It takes practice and many hours/days/years.

You need to find a rhythm that works for you. If it takes a box of marines to do it than oh well. You can always strip those marines or use them as testers. The biggest thing is getting comfortable and confident. You, unless you are extremely gifted, are not going to paint like the pros in your first week - so don't start painting expecting it. Vehicles may seem easier but I personally HATE painting vehicles. Compared to troops that have many ridges and bumps/detail, vehicles have large flat spots that annoy me. I find I have to use many light layers to cover large areas so that it blends together nicely and you don't see brush strokes (this also depends on the colour used - Yellows are absolutely killer). If I was to pick one thing to start with, it would be a troop model. You will find the ridges and detail give you a break - there is not so much you have to blend like a vehicle. If you have an airbrush then that's another story lol, vehicles will definitely come easier.

Mixing paint types on a model isn't too bad if they fully dry in between. I wouldn't mix them together though. If they are the same type of paint than go right ahead (but I would test it just in case before hand). Some paint lines have things added. For example, PP paints have a medium already added to it where as the cheap paints from Walmart or Michaels wont. So mixing them together may not work so well compared to mixing GW and PP. You should always test it out.

As for tape, I wouldn't bother buying that stuff as it can get expensive. Most people use painters tape (the extra fine brand - There is the normal brand and the brand that guarantees a sharp edge and no bleed). Other things I see painters use (both brush and airbrush) is that blue tac stuff you use to hang posters up. I use dollar store brand and have not had any issues with it.

Yea i'm trying not to be hard on myself (character flaw work in progress) I think my trouble is i'm the type to over plan things. I say that because when i play games like magic the gathering i'm a serious combo player. I also realize painters tape can get expensive. but the way i picture it, if i get into vechicle painting its a good way to isolate details, second i've had this idea with the tau's in warhammer in 40k some of those are just BEGGIN for a custom camoflauge paint job ~

Loctite is good. It's what I used until I discovered Gorilla glue brand superglue. It has a higher rubber contest, as I understand, so it is more resilient to bumps and drops.

Don't be afraid of plastic glue. Models are always coming apart. Plastic glue keeps that from happening. You won't be taking your models apart and reassembling them (on purpose), so that permanent bond it (IMO) best. I swear by it... my models DO NOT come apart.

Acryl paint if probably just a lazy typists abbreciation for "acrylic." Check to see if the "Acryl" is water-based. If so, you gan wager that it's acrylic.

I like auto-primer for my models, but you have to make sure to get the non-expanding kind.

Paints, as has been said, will be up to your preference. I happen to prefer Vallejo Game Color, but use Ceramcoat brand (hobby paint available at craft stores) for things like black and white, where I'll be using it in large quantities.
Invest in a bottle of thinner of the same brand as whatever paints you buy. For the "cheap" paints... don't bother. The pigment in those is not as heavy as in the "better" paints. Just thin those with a TINY AMOUNT of water when they start to thicken (but ONLY when they thicken).

Eric

@MagickalMemories Hmm that is elightening, but a What do i need to look for on the auto primer to make sure its not this "expanding " kind? And thinner for arcylic paints? i thought water would work fine? or are you talking about thinner for the airbrush?

The primer will have some verbiage on it indicating that it's gap filling or something. Worst case scenario, you can ask an employee. Fair warning, though, most auto primers etch themselves into the material (esp. plastic). So, be sure the color you're primering it is the color you WANT for primer.

Here is Vallejo Game Color Paint:


Here is Vallejo thinner:


It's similar to airbrush thinner, but specifically made to go with their style acrylic paint.

Eric

Yea i do need to pin down a source for model paints. I'm trying to find a local source in ohio for hobby supplies, but so far i think regular department stores are pretty close to a write off. Just because it seems to me by the time i get down to one the paints are pretty much picked over like a gun shop during the zombie apocalypse. On the plus side i think i've pinned down a pretty good deal for an airbrush kit.

For airbrushes, check out harnour freight. Under $100 for a brush and compresor.