Bartertown.com

So, I'm working on a couple Ork projects, and I need some rivets. I was going to go ahead and order them, but I'm not sure what RR scale would work best with 40K. I did a Google search, but the links all came up to Dakka and Warseer (both are work-blocked). So, I thought I'd turn to you fine folks.

Thanks in advance.

By the way; yes. I do know I can make them on my own. I do know how. I have done it before. The problems are as follows:
1) I hated it
2) I need in excess of 250
3) I hated it
4) I don't like the way they turned out that much, and these models are too important to me to screw it up
5) I hated it
6) I need in excess of 250, and I hated it.

Eric

O Scale is the closest RR scale to 40K/28-32mm.

Grandt Line makes some great rivets. They're not an advertiser so I won't link to them.

Grandt Line? Thanks. I'll look into them.
I was thinking it was O scale, and I found a decent selection at InternetTrains.com. Priced reasonably, too.

Eric

...and I appreciate the lack of linkage!

Their site is a bit archaic, but the products I have from them are great. They also make hex bolts, hinges, etc. A proppa ork mek can go nuts (pun intended) with their stuff.

got mine also from Grandt Line. don't forget to buy the drill bits to fit with your rivets...

J.

jul wrote:got mine also from Grandt Line. don't forget to buy the drill bits to fit with your rivets...

J.

Wait. What? I don't want RIVETS... just the heads to glue to the model.
Lord. Please tell me you're kidding!

Eric

the rivets come casted on sprue in the shape as a bobbypin. of course you can cut the sprue and keep only the head, but those things are so tiny, it was easier to drill a hole and insert the whole thing into it...

i tried cutting just the head and glued them and...that wasn't my best idea...

J

better explanation than my poor immigrant english one...

http://buildpaintplay.blogspot.com/2012 ... ivets.html

J

I've used straight pin heads for my ork rivets. Just use come wire cutters to cut them off, you can even use the left over pins for pinning models. Go to any fabric store and get hundreds for a couple of bucks and you can find the head size that fits your work best.

That can work, but I see a few minor issues:

1 - Most straight pins are chrome plated. Glue / paint isn't designed to stick to that so it can cause problems. A wire brush wheel in a Dremel should be able to remove it. Lots of work for that many rivets.
2 - Make sure your cutters are rated to cut steel. Most sprue cutters are not and will notch the blade as they are not hard enough. (Look to Micro-Mark for really good cutters.)
2a - Once cut, either piece is bound to fly away. Nothing incurs wrath like that of someone who stepped on a lost straight pin.

YoungWolf777 wrote: 2a - Once cut, either piece is bound to fly away. Nothing incurs wrath like that of someone who stepped on a lost straight pin.

that, and stepping on Lego Friends parts.....

Wow, you guys are so uncreative. I cut pins all the time. I use cutting pliers. Nice heavy ones. The cut small nails without a problem. I also use a good magnet, the parts don't fly. I also hold the pin end with a clamp.
Superglue holds them great. Super glue comes in a 10 pack for about $8-10.

http://www.homedepot.com/s/cutting%2520pliers?NCNI-5
I've seen them cheaper at harbor freight, I just can't find the in the online store.

Too much work to cut pins off or drill holes.
My converted flyer needs in excess of 120 rivets. I'm sure my Ork Stompa/Titan will need AT LEAST that many.
I just want to get something I can glue on and go. LOL

Thanks for the ideas, though, guys. Keep them coming, if you have any new ones.

Eric

Would small paper round confetti work? The non metalic ones? Large quantities in bags from what I remember.

Else maybe find a small diameter paper hole punch and hand punch circles from card stock?

I have a rotating leather hole punch that has very tiny diameter holes... I'm sure if it cuts leather it'll cut card stock. Multiple sheets.

- Robert

MagickalMemories wrote:Too much work to cut pins off or drill holes.
My converted flyer needs in excess of 120 rivets. I'm sure my Ork Stompa/Titan will need AT LEAST that many.
I just want to get something I can glue on and go.

You may find the trade off of drilling holes worthwhile for not having your rivets slip around/fall off as you're working with them. I'm imagining you picking up the model and swiping off a patch.