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I've just got my 1st fine cast model. I tried using Testor's model glu, but it didn't hold. It looks like it didn't even become tacky, so I'm presuming it didn't melt it.

What glue does anyone/everyone else use?

i use Extreme Power "Thick", its a model glue i get at Hobby Lobby for 5$ a bottle. Has a much tackier and thicker flow, with a pin and some of that i can usually get resin models to stick quickly.

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/store/item.a ... mId=174916

Testor glue is for plastic. you'll need any super glue type and you'll be good. i like a lot the Loctite Gel ones recently, the coloured one that dries clear is useful but not necessary...

Cheers

J

cursedmydice wrote:i use Extreme Power "Thick", its a model glue i get at Hobby Lobby for 5$ a bottle. Has a much tackier and thicker flow, with a pin and some of that i can usually get resin models to stick quickly.

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/store/item.a ... mId=174916

Hmmm.. haven't seen that in any of the local gaming or hobby stores.
Ordering online isn't worth the cost if there's an alternative.

kturock wrote:

cursedmydice wrote:i use Extreme Power "Thick", its a model glue i get at Hobby Lobby for 5$ a bottle. Has a much tackier and thicker flow, with a pin and some of that i can usually get resin models to stick quickly.

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/store/item.a ... mId=174916

Hmmm.. haven't seen that in any of the local gaming or hobby stores.
Ordering online isn't worth the cost if there's an alternative.

i got mine at any decent grocery stores. Otherwise Target, Rite Aid, CVS and the likes hold it as well. Staples sell also Loctite products but with a higher price tag. Generally i pay 3.00$ for a tube

Cheers

the stuff i use is in the model cars section with the testors glue but usually on the racks above the paint, if that helps

Super glue aren't a big deal. I can get it from $1 stores, Home Depot, grocery stores, all of the marts, about anywhere.

I meant that special model glue.

I use Testor's Model Master, liquid cement for plastic models, for my models. The bottle is only a couple bucks more than the tube type, but lasts 10x as long and the nozzle end is about the sae size as a fine needle and allows precsion gluing. Even a with my tendonitis acting up, I don't make a mess.

Most hobby places should carry Zap A Gap, which most people around here use. Way too thin for me.

I use INSTA-CURE+ Gap filling (purple bottle). http://frpgames.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=24776

Most model train / RC hobby stores should have that (the manufacturer customizes the label for the store usually - the bottle looks the same, but with some else rather than Armskeeper).

Zap a Gap is a good glue...
for most glues, there are 3 main companies holding most of the market...most of the hobby glues are rebranding of common Loctite glues...

I never had any issue with Loctite products, but run far away from GW glues...

Zap a Gap is a good glue...

This is the same glue I use. You just hold whatever you are gluing together for 7-10 seconds, and they it will stay and cement by itself.. (Assuming it's not anything huge) It works good for metal and plastic models.

Chris

I used to swear by loc-tite... then, I tried Gorilla Glue brand superglue. It's got a higher rubber content, so it's more resistant to breaking.

Eric

I agree with you Eric, but the Gorilla tends to dry faster in the tube if you don't leave in the fridge, i had one that dried in 2 months after opening, while i tend to keep my loctite ones for 5-6 months depending on my use, recently, i killed tubes faster so they do not have the time to dry out..

J

I have cheap $ store super glue and I have zapagap. The zapagap I bought from the flgs and paid $13 for a 2 oz bottle.
Evidently it's gotten old. Drying time can be in hours. Hold ability is questionable. Even with the accelerator. The bottle is getting fragile, it feels like it's about to break.
The cheap stuff is thicker. I got like 3 tubes in a pouch for a couple bucks. I never have any problems with it. Guess what I'm using for most everything now.

I use the zapagap for metal or resin to bases and such.

I've found in my 40+ years building models that model cement works better than super glue on plastic models. Super glue works on some plastics that model cement won't melt, usually by sticking to itself, same way JB weld and other epoxies work on metal and such.

ill swear by my 5$ hobby lobby glue over any other, but thats just me. it lasts years (yes years), has a very small applicator tip (and they sell just the tips in a two pack if one gets ruined or caked), and holds better on metals and plastics evenly. on plastics it takes way less glue to stick things allowing me to do much cleaner assemblies on studio pieces.

jul wrote:I agree with you Eric, but the Gorilla tends to dry faster in the tube if you don't leave in the fridge, i had one that dried in 2 months after opening, while i tend to keep my loctite ones for 5-6 months depending on my use, recently, i killed tubes faster so they do not have the time to dry out..

J

Really?
Do you leave the cap off for extended periods of time? I never keep mine in the fridge, and I've never had one dry out on me. The worst I've ever done is have it seal itself closed (usually the cap, occasionally the whole top and, one time, both)... but that's my fault for being sloppy. Heck, a couple months ago, I cut open the bottle I sealed shut and poured the contents into a second, brand new, bottle and consolidated the two. haven't had any issues with it since then, at all.

kturock wrote:I have cheap $ store super glue and I have zapagap. The zapagap I bought from the flgs and paid $13 for a 2 oz bottle.
Evidently it's gotten old. Drying time can be in hours. Hold ability is questionable. Even with the accelerator. The bottle is getting fragile, it feels like it's about to break.
The cheap stuff is thicker. I got like 3 tubes in a pouch for a couple bucks. I never have any problems with it. Guess what I'm using for most everything now.

I use the zapagap for metal or resin to bases and such.

I've found in my 40+ years building models that model cement works better than super glue on plastic models. Super glue works on some plastics that model cement won't melt, usually by sticking to itself, same way JB weld and other epoxies work on metal and such.

Before Gorilla Glue, I used generic glue, too. I prefer it to any of the "Hobby" brands.
Re: the bold text above, though... That's one of the reasons you have hold issue. Accelerator is a horrible product. I have and do use it, but never on anything important. Accelerator does not not allow the glue to cure properly. It just hardens it on the spot. The problem with that is that the hardened glue is comparatively brittle and is easy to break.

I agree with you on plastics. I've got a bottle of Testors plastic glue (not REALLY glue LOL) that I typically use on my plastics. On occasion, there will be a spot that just doesn't want to stay in place long enough for the plastic "glue" to dry. In those cases, I Gorilla Glue them.

cursedmydice wrote:ill swear by my 5$ hobby lobby glue over any other, but thats just me. it lasts years (yes years), has a very small applicator tip (and they sell just the tips in a two pack if one gets ruined or caked), and holds better on metals and plastics evenly. on plastics it takes way less glue to stick things allowing me to do much cleaner assemblies on studio pieces.

Spare applicator tips are nice. I wish Gorilla Glue had some available at the store where I get my glue (Lowes). They have a metal stud built into the tip of their cap which, in theory, is supposed to keep your tip from getting clogged. I find it not to be of a huge help when the metal stud, instead, just gets GLUED to the tip. LOL

Eric