Bartertown.com

So, I managed to get a good deal on a Forgeworld Eldar Revenant Titan. It's my intent to turn it into a DARK Eldar Revenant Titan with the use of some DE bits and a good paint job.
When I received it, though, it was broken at the ankle.

At first, I thought it had just come apart. Looking at it more closely, however, I noticed that it was a caked mess of superglue and on (TINY) little brass rod. Seriously, it's about the size I use for pinning Malifaux arms.

For now, forget the "trade" aspect of it. I'm trying to see IF I can fix it to my satisfaction and, if so, how much work it'll take. I just can't manage to get most of this superglue off, though. It's really bad on the foot which, if you've ever assembled one of these, you know has some deep undercuts... they're filled with glue.

Does anyone have any experience with resin and acetone? Will the acetone eat the resin like it does plastic?
I've put an old Armorcast Terraform base and an Epicast base in some resin to see how they react, but they're not necessarily the same KIND of resin. So, I'm not sure if it correlates. About 10 minutes in, though, and there seems to be some hard detail softening on both bases. This does not bode well.

What will eat the superglue but NOT TOUCH the resin? Does anyone know of any products? I'm talking, this thing may be left alone for 24 or more hours. I can't have pieces devoured or melted by the stuff.

Thanks for looking, guys.


Eric

send me an email, [so I remember] with the specifics; what type of acetone or other chemical, and what type/age of model.

I should be seeing the pro painters tomorrow night and I'll LYK what I find out.

Good day,

When I worked at the hobby store we had a de-bonder made for removing super glue, I think you can get something like that at Michaels Crafts or if you have a good hobby type store they should have it.

I think it was made by zap-a-gap.

PM Sent with further info.

Thank you,

gpfredette wrote:Good day,

When I worked at the hobby store we had a de-bonder made for removing super glue, I think you can get something like that at Michaels Crafts or if you have a good hobby type store they should have it.

I think it was made by zap-a-gap.

PM Sent with further info.

Thank you,

zap-a-gap makes a debonder, so do some others.

I don't recall who else.

I looked at the link Gerry sent me (Thanks, Gerry). I looked up the MSDS sheet on it, too.
It's just acetone.


Eric

As an alternative, you could cut/sand around the affected area and try remolding the damage with green stuff.

Fantastic should "jellify" the super glue.

You have to be very careful with acetone.

I stripped a bunch of Warmachine jack bits in Acetone and left them in for days with no problems. With confidence I then proceeded to strip some resin infantry and the did not react well. They softened quite a bit and took along time to reharden, and they did not strip as well as I had hoped. It took a lot of fiddling to get them good enough to repaint.

I did something similar recently with a FW tank and brake cleaner. The turret and guns came out amazing. However I left the body in another day, as the paint was quite thick and it softened the actual resin as well. The actual resin became soft, a fingernail can cut into it. This means it gets shelved for at least a month to reharden.

If you sand it out make sure you work in a well ventilated area and watch the dust it is a carcinogen.

Ironhide wrote:As an alternative, you could cut/sand around the affected area and try remolding the damage with green stuff.

Funnily enough, you're the second person (one person on Dakka did, too) to make that suggestion.

At that point, I'll send it back. I'm willing to put some work into it to fix it, but not that much. The amount of remolding we're talking about would be half of a foot and the adjoining parts of the ankle.

Fortunately, the seller is a very high rated trader also and is, of course, stepping up and willing to do what it takes to make this right. Of course, as long as I can fix the thing without resorting to resculpting things, I'm okay with it as-is.

s_o_r_r_o_w wrote:Fantastic should "jellify" the super glue.

Any idea what it'll do to resin? That's my worry. I can't work with "jellified" resin. lol

Norseman wrote:You have to be very careful with acetone.

I stripped a bunch of Warmachine jack bits in Acetone and left them in for days with no problems. With confidence I then proceeded to strip some resin infantry and the did not react well. They softened quite a bit and took along time to reharden, and they did not strip as well as I had hoped. It took a lot of fiddling to get them good enough to repaint.

I did something similar recently with a FW tank and brake cleaner. The turret and guns came out amazing. However I left the body in another day, as the paint was quite thick and it softened the actual resin as well. The actual resin became soft, a fingernail can cut into it. This means it gets shelved for at least a month to reharden.

If you sand it out make sure you work in a well ventilated area and watch the dust it is a carcinogen.

By the end of the night last night, I was convinced that acetone was not my answer. Although I left the pieces in, just to see what would happen, they had softened enough that an Xacto knife sunk in with very little pressure. It didn't sink in DEEP... but it did sink.

I'm not worried about resin dust. I snort that sh** for fun!

J/K, kids. Always protect yourself when working with resin!


Eric

Purple Power / Castrol Super Clean is your best bet (IMO). Will strip the paint and make the superglue very brittle without harming the resin. I wrote an article a while back: Stripping Products Showdown. Not all-inclusive, as I wanted to focus on products that were safe for plastic (and by extension, resin.)

I remember that article. As I recall, you also posted it here.
Sadly, there are tons of info online re: what works with plastic. I couldn't find anything on resin and, not really knowing enough about the similarities between the 2 materials, I didn't know how anything save for plastic would work with resin.

On DakkaDakka, I was told about 2 other products; Simple Green and Clorox Green Works Multisurface. The individuals recommending them both had personal experience with them.

Things are looking up.

Thanks!!!!!


Eric

Plastics that models are made from and casting resins are pretty similar in chemical make up. I have yet to findf something that was safe for one and not the other. That's why I test on plastics. Cheaper and easier to sacrifice a plastic zombie to an unknown product than a Revenant Titan.

I didn't add Simple Green to that piece as I've reviewed it before. It's safe for plastics, resins, your hands, etc. I find it just doesn't work as hard or as quickly as I would like. Purple Power (generic version of Castrol Super Clean) is my weapon of choice. Works faster, has a longer usable "tub life", and is still relatively safe to pour down the kitchen sink. It's rough on skin though, so take precautions or use lots of lotion for days afterwards.

And yes, I did post it here in response to someone asking about Dawn Power Dissolver. That will work on the glue as well. I find that soaking in a liquid tends to get into nooks & crannies better than spraying something on the surface. YMMV.

Are we talking about one of the two titans on this webpage?
http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/Warhammer-4 ... ans?page=1

Might seem a bit much but you could always call forgeworld and ask what they would suggest

Ironhide wrote:Are we talking about one of the two titans on this webpage?
http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/Warhammer-4 ... ans?page=1

Yes. This one, in fact:
http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/Warhammer-4 ... ANCES.html

Gaijin18 wrote:Might seem a bit much but you could always call forgeworld and ask what they would suggest

I was thinking of emailing them. They don't do replacement pieces (for the right price, I'd just BUY a new ankle & foot). Honestly, though, I trust the more experienced and established modelers here and on Dakka more than I trust the Forgeworld guys. LOL

Eric