Can you prime over painted minis?

[CMSheats]

I didn't think about that! I bet if you just got some no named brand kitty litter, it wouldn't absorb anything. I will have to give that a try. Thanks Starship.

[kturock ( 500 )]

we have 8 cats that allow us in their house. we've tried every type of litter. currently we're using the pine pieces.

when we used the clay litter, we I still have in the garage for spills, i glued it to the base with white glue & water mix.
it sucked up the paint when I put down the base coat.

I found I can buy basing materials from craft stores, like Michaels for alot less than GW.

It's clean/sanatized and comes in a variety of colors & textures.

[starship trooper ( 26 )]

when we used the clay litter, we I still have in the garage for spills, i glued it to the base with white glue & water mix.
it sucked up the paint when I put down the base coat.

I use no sent ally cat on my warhammer... here it is in action on the table I built. Its all along the road and river edge. Works just as well for me on the bases.

[CMSheats]

LOL! Who would have thought that your gaming table would be covered with kitty litter! I guess there is alot about cutting costs and stuff that I have yet to learn.

[CMSheats]

Now can you use sand? Could you flock a gaming board with it and paint it?

[Azbag#1 ( 88 )]

Here's the method that I use on both metal and plastic models. It doesn't ruin any detail and it's pretty easy to do.

Easy Paint Removal

1. Get some Castrol Engine Degreaser from Wal-mart. It’s in a purple 1 gallon jug. It generally runs around 7 to 9 dollars for the jug.
2. Place the models in a sealable container and fill the jar up about ¾ full. It should completely cover the models. I’ve found that a large peanut butter jar or Sour Cream container works well.
3. Close the container and let it sit for 5 or 6 hours.
4. Use a pair of latex gloves or dishwashing gloves to handle the models and try to find and use a pair of safety glasses. (This stuff could really hurt your eyes)
5. Pull the models out of the jar and pour a little of the sol’n that was in the jar into another open container like a bowl that’s no longer needed.
6. Take a old toothbrush and start scrubbing. You can use the sol’n in the bowl as a dip to put more on the toothbrush.
7. Rinse the models off with hot water and scrub them as needed.
8. If some paint didn’t come off then just put them back into the “dunking jar” again and let them sit for some more time.
9. This stuff even works on spray paint. The biggest hit for me on it was that it does not damage the GW plastic models. I cleaned up a squad of SM assault troops and it still left the details of the grenades on.
10. It may break down some types of glue but that would only require a simple re-glue and it’s good as new.
11. Once you are satisfied with the model I would wash it in warm soapy water just to make sure there is no residue left.
12. Prime and paint away.

[CMSheats]

Hey thanks for that man! That sounds like a nice easy way to do it. I will have to give it a shot. Thanks again!

[starship trooper ( 26 )]

Now can you use sand? Could you flock a gaming board with it and paint it?

For what your trying to do you should just get a can of the texture spray from walmart for like $3. They have stone, rock, and sand.. looks and feels like rock, sand ext.... then you can just paint it what ever colors or patterns you want.

[CMSheats]

Ok. Great! I will have to pick some of that up. Thanks!

[kturock ( 500 )]

You can also buy the stuff that's used for 'knock-down' ceilings in houses at Lowe's, Home Depot & other home improvement stores.

[CMSheats]

I just thought of it, would that spray foam that people use around hoses and stuff work for hills? Like could you spray it and smooth it out?

[kturock ( 500 )]

I just thought of it, would that spray foam that people use around hoses and stuff work for hills? Like could you spray it and smooth it out?

nope.
Better to buy sheets of 1 inch stryofoam from the home stores.

[CMSheats]

Ok, well thanks for letting me know.

[Ironhide]

Here's the method that I use on both metal and plastic models. It doesn't ruin any detail and it's pretty easy to do.

Easy Paint Removal

1. Get some Castrol Engine Degreaser from Wal-mart. It’s in a purple 1 gallon jug. It generally runs around 7 to 9 dollars for the jug.
2. Place the models in a sealable container and fill the jar up about ¾ full. It should completely cover the models. I’ve found that a large peanut butter jar or Sour Cream container works well.
3. Close the container and let it sit for 5 or 6 hours.
4. Use a pair of latex gloves or dishwashing gloves to handle the models and try to find and use a pair of safety glasses. (This stuff could really hurt your eyes)
5. Pull the models out of the jar and pour a little of the sol’n that was in the jar into another open container like a bowl that’s no longer needed.
6. Take a old toothbrush and start scrubbing. You can use the sol’n in the bowl as a dip to put more on the toothbrush.
7. Rinse the models off with hot water and scrub them as needed.
8. If some paint didn’t come off then just put them back into the “dunking jar” again and let them sit for some more time.
9. This stuff even works on spray paint. The biggest hit for me on it was that it does not damage the GW plastic models. I cleaned up a squad of SM assault troops and it still left the details of the grenades on.
10. It may break down some types of glue but that would only require a simple re-glue and it’s good as new.
11. Once you are satisfied with the model I would wash it in warm soapy water just to make sure there is no residue left.
12. Prime and paint away.

When using this method, do not leave plastic models in the solution for too long as it will soften the plastic; and prolonged exposure will actually melt them. Also, if plastic models are primed with some Krylon brands, the primer will not come off no matter what you use; as the primer will bond with the plastic.

[CMSheats]

Like how long is to long?